China Dérive: A Cultural Guide to Hong Kong

Hong Kong is a wonderful city: vibrant, energetic, diverse, wealthy and organized. It is one of Asia's top centers for academia, and remains a successful political example of how democracy can work within China. I recommend it as a holiday destination, and its location also makes it a perfect stop-off point on the way to Australia or New Zealand.

Hong Kong is and isn't part of China. Originally a small fishing town and minor port, the British leased it from China in 1898 for one hundred years. In 1997 it was returned to China-sort of. Hong Kong has still retained itself as a semi-independent entity, in which its people are able to elect its officials, and its people have freedom of speech and press. It also has a different feel to China -- in other words, it's not polluted, disorganized, corrupt and dirty, as many places in Mainland China are.

Out of necessity, due to its location-propped on the outskirts of mountains and between a waterway-Hong Kong is one of the most vertical cities in the world. This makes for a fascinating vista when viewed from the top of Victoria Peak, especially at night, when the city lights up and projects a laser display in the sky for the Symphony of Lights (performed every night from 8pm.)

The best museums in Hong Kong are conveniently located side-by-side on the Kowloon waterfront. The Hong Kong Story at the Hong Kong Museum of History, articulates through a number of exhibitions, displays, videos and set pieces, the development and occupation of Hong Kong through the years. Next door, the Space Museum offers an interactive experience ideal for children, especially since the addition of an IMAX theatre. The Hong Kong Art Gallery offers a fine collection of traditional Chinese crafts, rivaling that of the Shanghai Art Gallery, plus contemporary art exhibitions and touring fashion and cultural exhibits.

The Central area is one of the main hives of activity in Hong Kong. Surrounded by financial institutions, the area boasts shops, malls, restaurants, bars, and nightclubs. Lan Kwai Fong is the best street to head down during Hallowe'en, New Year's, and any big sporting event, during which this bar-lined street holds an infectious party atmosphere. Some of the restaurants around Lan Kwai Fong are particularly good. Be sure to eat out at one of the many 'dim sum' restaurants, Luk Yu Tea House on Stanley Street being one of the best and oldest, set amidst palms, quaint ceiling fans, and wooden booths which evoke a 1930's ambience. Hutong is a great option if you wish to sample traditional foods from thoughout China, and, on the 28^th floor of an office building on Peking Road, it also offers fantastic views.

We're living in a material world, and Hong Kong is a material girl. The city is frequented by fashionistas from throughout Asia, primarily because most European and North American high-end labels-Louis Vuitton, Prada, Ralph Lauren, Brookes Brothers, Marc Jacobs, among others-all have bases here. Like most large Asian cities, Hong Kong has blended high-end shopping malls into the urban fabric. These prove to be the most popular hang out spots for everyone from high-school students, to office executives, to couples on a date. Causeway Bay and the malls surrounding Central Station on Hong Kong Island are best for high-end buys, and the Ladies Market near Mong Kok Station is the place to head for fake Lacoste Polo shirts and tourist trinkets.

During the countless trips I've made to Hong Kong, I've stayed in everything from the cheapest hostels to five-star hotels. The Chungking Mansions offer some of the cheapest accommodation in the city. The mansions were one of the original inner-city mass housing developments designed by the British in 1961 to hold an ever-rising population in a city with limited space. Now the property is sectioned up into various youth hostels and guesthouses. Hong Kong boasts mostly mid-range hotels, which are all clean and modern (note: historic property is on the very limited side in Hong Kong.) For something luxurious, be sure to check into the Mandarin Oriental on Hong Kong Island overlooking the bay and Kowloon's skyline.

For relaxing outdoor pursuits I recommend some of Hong Kong's beaches-in particular, Repulse Bay (which can get rather busy on weekends) and Shek O' Beach. For something more energetic, hiking can be rewarding in Hong Kong due to the way the city is dispersed amongst wilderness, islands and mountains. Lantau Island, home of the giant Buddha shrine on Ngong Ping Hill, features the most dramatic hiking trails, though late autumn and early spring months, when the weather is neither too hot and humid, nor too cold and damp, are best for hiking.

Hong Kong's two main theme parks, Disneyland and the older Ocean Park, are certainly worth spending a day in, or, in Disney's case, half a day. It is the smallest Disney park I've visited, but despite this it's interesting to see just how popular Disney is in the far east and how Main Street, USA, is being sold to the Chinese. Ocean Park is aimed at older theme park-goers, especially teenagers, as there is more of an emphasis on rides rather than themed attractions. Plus, the park holds one of the most impressive walk-through aquariums in the world.

For a day trip you can head into China's Guangdong Province. Sometimes unfortunately referred to as the most polluted region on the planet, it is still worth a visit, at least to see how dramatically it compares to Hong Kong and how fast it is attempting to catch up. Shamian Island, located in the east of Guangzhou, is fascinating to see; it was the only place Europeans could live in South China (excluding Hong Kong) during the 19^th century. The sprawling city of Shenzhen that I wrote about here, Hong Kong's bastard child, located just across the border from the New Territories, is somewhat boring and spiritless, but interesting to consider that despite being just 30 years old it contains a staggering 14 million citizens.

Hong Kong is for many travelers the gateway to China and the rest of Asia. As China will be the projected recipient of 20 million foreign tourists per year by 2020, Hong Kong will become an even more significant tourist destination, as well as a finance and business hub in its own regard. Make the visit if you get the chance.

Adam J. Smith is a British ex-pat, currently an MFA Documentary Film student at Stanford University.

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