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Written by Will Parker

Wednesday, 10 March 2010 00:00

It wasn't too long ago that critics wouldn't hesitate to tell you the best food in Canada would undoubtedly be found in Montreal. Others might argue that niche areas of Toronto or Halifax could provide some of the best Italian or seafood respectively, but the common theme has been that Montreal has the rest of Canada beat in terms of culinary prowess. With its undeniable French cosmopolitan flair and its mix of cultural backgrounds, it's not surprising that it is a veritable epicentre of amazing food.

And of course, Montreal still is. Except that there's a new kid in town -- a place that, until quite recently, was overlooked as another standard venue for average Canadian food. That place is Vancouver. In recent years, the geographic location of Vancouver, coupled with one of the richest Asian-immigrant populations in North America, have transformed what was once a ho-hum city into a world-class, five-star dining experience. Last month Condé Nast magazine named Vancouver the top place in the world for Chinese food. (Remember that the world includes China.) The New York Times has noted a handful of Vancouver restaurants that rank among the top in their class. Food & Wine magazine has listed a number of local Okanagan wineries as producing the best vintages available today. There is no denying that Vancouver is the new golden child in Canadian dining.

Corner Suite Bistro De Luxe -- Chef Sedlak

With all eyes turned toward Vancouver this February, there has been even greater pressure on the city to perform. The city has not disappointed. New amazing restaurants have sprouted up amongst the venerable foodie institutions, transforming Vancouver into a true culinary mecca. One of the newest on the block is the Corner Suite Bistro De Luxe. Open now for less than a month and formed out of a partnership including Food Network personality Anthony Sedlak, the restaurant already has a waiting list. Book now because it is worth it. Chef Sedlak does French Bistro just as well as Montreal does. What makes it even better is that the prices will leave you the freedom to order dessert. (I recommend the paper bag donuts).

Thomas Haas Patisserie

Another new kid in town is master chocolatier Thomas Haas. Having opened his first shop in North Vancouver in 2005, Mr. Haas finally opened up a location in the Kitsilano area this past October, to the delight of most downtown chocolate addicts. There is nothing like a beautiful Thomas Haas chocolate treat, whether it is his master blend of hot chocolate, his artfully created truffles, or his trademark chocolate sparkle cookies, which literally thousands of online reviewers rave are the best chocolate cookies ever. EVER.

Hapa Izakaya

Then there are the innovative Japanese izakayas. Ostensibly, these places serve Japanese cuisine Spanish tapas-style. Over the past five years, they have been popping up all over town. Recently, Vancouver was recognized as having some of the best in the world. Hapa Izakaya, for example, serves marinated mackerel sashimi, dramatically seared at your table by blowtorch-wielding waitresses. Also delicious is the tuna carpaccio, particularly when served with large pitchers of sake margaritas.

But the new kids aren't the only places worth trying. Vij's has been named one of the best Indian restaurants in the world by the New York Times. Waiting in line for the 5:30 opening will only begin to show you why. Owner Vikram Vij plies his hungry customers with fresh pakoras and hot chips while they wait to be seated. The wine list is small but perfectly complements the fragrant aromas and spicy flavours of whatever meal you order. The meal I had there was so wonderful that I can't help but salivate while typing this sentence. Lamb popsicles. Chicken in saffron curry. A ghee-based flavour overload aptly named "Punjabi heart-attack." Thinking about it makes me ask myself how much longer it will be before I get that elusive government transfer from the National Capital Region to my culinary heaven?

Tojo's Restaurant

And of course Vij's is only the beginning. Some of the best drinks you could ever mix are served up at George. The freshest fried salmon and chips are available at Go Fish. The yummiest granola is sold by the bag at any of the Terra Breads around town. Wonderfully flavourful ramen noodles are served by the steaming bowlful at Kintaro. Sushi lovers delight in some of the best North America has to offer at high-end institutions like Tojo's, and off the beaten path at places like Ajisai. You want bumbleberry pie? You can't beat Savary Island. You want mussels? Chambar's got 'em. Thin-crust pizza at Campagnolo. Buttery French fine-dining at Lumière. Dim-sum at Lin Chinese Cuisine and Tea House. The crazy thing is, all of these things are the best I've ever had.

Last month I was fortunate enough to be in Vancouver during the Olympics. While I was keen on attending as many events as possible, I was even more excited to participate in the event I have been training for all my life -- stuffing my face. There is no denying that Vancouver is the best place in Canada to do it. While many other Canadian cities have a lot to offer us foodies, Vancouver has become the ultimate. So the next time you are in need of a culinary vacation, may I suggest the lovely city of Vancouver? Your belly will thank you for it!

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This article belongs to the Evolution Issue.

Tags: evolution, food, gourmet, olympics, restaurants, vancouver

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