Kochu and Kimchi: Korea's Wholesome Heat

Okay. Time to fess up. Before coming to work at the Embassy of Korea, I sort of believed -- being from the Maritimes and all -- that there were only a few ways to eat cabbage:

1) Raw (if you were starving)
2) Sunday “Jiggs dinner” (aka corned beef and cabbage)
3) coleslaw (is that really cabbage?)  
4) Golabki (aka cabbage rolls if you were really lucky and/or had Polish friends)

Although I had heard of kimchi (sometimes spelled kimchee), and I had “inadvertently” tried it once or twice, I really didn’t know what it was, and I certainly didn’t know anything about its wholesome and nutritious attributes. Now, if troubadours were still in vogue, I’d be out singing the praises of this fine thousand-year-old Korean food. Kimchi is loaded with vitamins A, B, and C, but its biggest benefit is arguably the “healthy bacteria” called lactobacilli that are found in fermented foods like kimchi and yogurt. This good bacteria helps with digestion, is said to help stop and even prevent yeast infections, and, according to a recent study, contains special compounds that may even prevent the growth of cancer.  Kochu jang, the red chili paste that gives the zip and heat to this traditional Korean side dish, is made from a species of chili pepper that includes the well-known tabasco (yes, as in Tabasco sauce) Capsicum frutescens. The substance that gives chili peppers their intensity when ingested is capsaicin and, yes again, it’s the same stuff that the “po-po” use in pepper spray.

When consumed, capsaicinoids bind with pain receptors in the mouth and throat that are normally responsible for sensing heat. Once activated by the capsaicinoids, these receptors send a message to the brain that the person has consumed something hot. The brain responds to the burning sensation by raising the heart rate, increasing perspiration and releasing the body's natural painkilling chemical, endorphin. Also, kimchi is effective in killing food-poisoning bacteria left untreated by antibiotics, according to an extensive study at Seoul National University headed by veterinary professor Park jae-hak and his team. It is also being touted as a possible option for treating avian influenza.

Wow … magic food!

My Korean girlfriends here at the Embassy laugh at me (more like giggle, with their hands demurely covering their beautiful mouths) as I continually ask them kimchi questions. One says, “We eat kimchi every day not only because it’s good for us but mostly because it’s flavourful. We like it. It really is a Korean staple.”

They patiently tell me how the kimchi served at a meal will vary according to region, season, and may differ according to the other dishes on the menu. For example, kimchi from a seaside region will be saltier than that of a landlocked area, and summer cooks produce cooling “water kimchi” to contrast with the heartier “cabbage kimchi” of the autumn and winter.

A recent survey of Koreans found that rates of eating kimchi at every meal were 67 percent in rural areas and 58 percent in cities. One out of every five respondents ate kimchi at least once a day, with the highest number eating it with the dinner meal. Female college students showed the lowest rates for eating it.

Regarding the preferences for different styles of kimchi, hot and spicy was the most preferred (66 percent), followed by not sweet (55 percent), not salty (47 percent), and a little ripe (46 percent). Kimchi made from pickled fish paste was preferred by 76 percent of parents, while only 39 percent of female college students preferred it.
And it is interesting to note that cabbage isn’t the only main ingredient used to make kimchi; it can be made from almost any fermented vegetable. In fact, Korea boasts more than two hundred types of kimchi, all rich in vitamins, minerals, and made with everything from stuffed cucumber to diced radishes. Some folks like baek kimchi (known as “white kimchi”), which doesn’t contain any kochu - a not-so-hot version.

The most popular kimchi among Koreans is Tongbaechu, or “Chinese Cabbage Kimchi.”  They eat about 40 pounds of this kimchi per person each year. The reddish fermented cabbage dish -- made with a mix of garlic, salt, vinegar, kochu jang, and other spices, is served at every meal, either alone or mixed with rice or noodles. It is often served in a small side dish and is part of a high-fiber, low-fat diet that has kept obesity at bay in Korea (at least so far). Kimchi is used in everything from soup to pancakes.  hey even like it as a pizza topping and as a garnish on burgers. Personally, I like it with extra kochu jang in my own special recipe with diced tomatoes and mushrooms mixed with eggs, sort of like an omelet.

And it’s not just me who believes that kimchi is coming of age in the Western world. Many non-Koreans are being turned on to the tasty benefits of kimchi and the healthy heat of kochu by finding ways to include it in a variety of novel food creations. Charles Cointreau, Asia Director and head of the Cordon Bleu culinary school in Korea who last year oversaw the publication of a new book, “Korean Kimchi & Le Cordon Bleu”, says, “Korean food needs to have its identity firmly established. The delivery format of food -- whether it’s multiple plates or barbecue on the table, or sharing food -- it’s the unique social factor that people enjoy.”

One of the creations of Le Cordon Bleu is chocolate cake with kimchi. Cointreau said, “Korean food’s image as a healthy well-being food could only work in a particular segment of health-savvy people. It might not, however, be recognized as attractive in general.”
Maybe it’s the cabbage. I think Westerners have a hang up with the humble vegetable and its far-from-glamorous reputation. I know I did, but I do not anymore. Kimchi (with lots of kochu) has become a staple in my house and, like my Korean friends, I eat it not only because it’s good for me, I eat it because it is yummy and hot.

In Ottawa, if you want to try kimchi and Korean food, I highly recommend Korea Garden on Rideau. They have a variety of kimchi and, like all their food, it is excellent. To try kochu jang in something other than kimchi, I suggest stopping by the new Sushi & Korean Cuisine take-out Kochu on Elgin Street. Order the Bibimbap to truly experience the heat of this great little pepper.

References:
1. Korea Policy Review, April 2008, Vol. 4 No. 4
2. Korea Agro-Fisheries Trade Corporation, 232, Yangjae-Dong, Seocho-Gu,  Seoul, Korea
3. Danniel, Fabrice (master chef & co-author),  Korean Kimchi & Le Cordon Bleu: A meeting of flavors, tastes and cultures, June 2005  Le Cordon Bleu publication, France

© 2008 Bonita Slunder; licensee (Cult)ure Magazine.
This is an Open Access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0), which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.

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